What Type Of Lawn Grass Do I Have Identify And Optimize

Growth Habits and Maintenance Requirements in Lawn Grass Selection

Comparative Growth Characteristics and Mowing Requirements

Step-by-Step Adjustments for Mower Settings by Grass Type

1. Determine Grass Type and Climate Zone:
   Refer to regional adaptability data (e.g., USDA hardiness zones) to confirm the suitability of your grass species. For instance, cool-season grasses thrive in zones 3–8, while warm-season grasses dominate zones 7–10.
2. Set Initial Blade Height:
   Adjust the mower deck to the upper recommended height range during establishment (e.g., 3–4 inches for Tall Fescue). This promotes root development.

   Example: For Kentucky Bluegrass in Zone 5, start at 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) and gradually lower to 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) once the root system is established.

3. Adjust for Seasonal Stress:
   • Drought Conditions: Raise mower height by 0.5–1 inch (1.3–2.5 cm) to conserve moisture and shade soil. For example, Zoysia grass should be set to 2 inches (5.1 cm) during summer droughts.
   • Cold Winters: Increase height to 3–4 inches (7.6–10.2 cm) for cool-season grasses to protect crowns from freeze-thaw cycles.
   • High Heat/Humidity: Lower settings slightly (e.g., Bermuda at 1 inch (2.5 cm)) to improve air circulation and reduce fungal risks.
4. Gradual Height Reduction:
   Never reduce mower height by more than 0.25 inches (0.6 cm) per week to avoid shock. Use a staggered approach for large lawns to distribute stress.
5. Verify with the "One-Third Rule":
   Before mowing, measure the current grass height. If it exceeds the recommended maximum by more than one-third, raise the mower deck and make two passes at higher settings.

Seasonal Maintenance Checklist by Grass Variety

Cool-Season Grasses (Kentucky Bluegrass, Tall Fescue, Perennial Ryegrass):

1. Early Spring (March–April):
   • Test soil pH (ideal: 6.0–7.0) and amend with lime if below 6.0.
   • Apply pre-emergent herbicide for crabgrass if not overseeding.
   • Mow at 3–4 inches (7.6–10.2 cm) to encourage deep rooting.
2. Late Spring (May–June):
   • Overseed bare patches with Perennial Ryegrass for fast germination.
   • Aerate compacted soil (core aeration, 3–4 inches deep).
   • Fertilize with high-nitrogen (25–0–5) in early June for peak growth.
3. Summer (July–August):
   • Increase mower height to 3.5–4 inches (8.9–10.2 cm) to reduce heat stress.
   • Irrigate deeply 2–3 times per week (1–1.5 inches per session) if rainfall <1 inch.
   • Apply fungicide if dollar spot or leaf spot appears (common in humid climates).
4. Fall (September–October):
   • Apply fall fertilizer (16–4–8 or 12–12–12) to
     

     Common Grass Types: Deep Dives with Descriptions

     Grass species vary widely in morphology, adaptability, and cultural significance, shaping lawn aesthetics, ecological resilience, and maintenance demands. Understanding these distinctions—rooted in botanical traits, historical cultivation, and regional dominance—enables informed selection for turfgrass systems. Below, detailed profiles of prominent grass types elucidate their unique characteristics, including growth habits, color variations, and life cycle dynamics, alongside comparisons to invasive or ornamental alternatives.
     

     Botanical Profiles of Turfgrass Species

     Bermuda Grass (Cynodon dactylon)

     Originating from Africa and the Middle East, Cynodon dactylon thrives in warm-season climates (USDA Zones 7–10) due to its C4 photosynthetic pathway, which enhances drought and heat tolerance. Historically used in military training grounds and sports fields for its durability, Bermuda grass spreads aggressively via rhizomes (underground stems) and stolons (above-ground runners), forming a dense, self-repairing sod. Its deep root system (up to 6 inches) resists compaction but demands frequent mowing (0.5–1.5 inches) to maintain vigor. Color ranges from blue-green in optimal conditions to grayish-green under stress, with a rough texture when unmowed. Invasive potential exists outside its native range, particularly in disturbed soils.

     Kentucky Bluegrass (Poa pratensis)

     Native to Europe and Asia, Poa pratensis is a cool-season perennial (USDA Zones 3–9) prized for its fine, soft blades and dense, carpet-like growth, historically favored in northern U.S. lawns. It spreads via rhizomes, enabling rapid recovery from damage but also contributing to its aggressive colonization in lawn edges. Blade color shifts from deep blue-green in spring to yellow-green under drought or nutrient deficiency. Mowing height should range from 1.5–3 inches to balance density and disease resistance. Its deep root system (up to 2 feet) improves drought tolerance compared to other cool-season grasses.

     St. Augustinegrass (Stenotaphrum secundatum)

     Indigenous to the Caribbean and southern Florida, Stenotaphrum secundatum dominates humid subtropical lawns (USDA Zones 7–10) due to its broad, dark green blades and stoloniferous spread, forming a thick, shade-tolerant sod. Historically used in Southern U.S. landscapes for its lush appearance, it requires high moisture and fertility to prevent yellowing or brown patch disease. Color varies from deep emerald-green in ideal conditions to pale green under stress. Mowing heights of 3–4 inches are recommended to preserve stolon growth. Its slow establishment (6–8 weeks for germination) and susceptibility to chinch bugs limit its regional suitability.

     Fescue (Festuca spp.)

     Comprising multiple species (e.g., Festuca arundinacea for tall fescue, Festuca rubra for fine fescue), fescue grasses originate from Europe and Asia, adapted to cool, temperate climates (USDA Zones 4–8). Tall fescue’s coarse texture and deep roots (up to 2 feet) make it drought-resistant, while fine fescue offers soft, narrow blades ideal for shade. Color ranges from blue-green (fine fescue) to grayish-green (tall fescue) under stress. Fescue spreads minimally via rhizomes or bunch-type growth, reducing invasiveness. Mowing heights of 2–4 inches vary by species, with fine fescue requiring lower cuts for density.

     Zoysia Grass (Zoysia japonica, Zoysia tenufolia)

     Native to East Asia, Zoysia species (e.g., Japanese lawngrass and Manila grass) thrive in warm-season climates (USDA Zones 6–10) with slow growth and stolon/rhizome spread, forming a fine-textured, durable sod. Historically used in Japanese gardens for its low-maintenance appeal, Zoysia enters dormancy in winter, turning straw-colored until spring. Blade color is medium green when active, with blue-green hues in Z. tenufolia. Mowing heights of 0.5–2 inches are typical, with scalping (low cuts) used to stimulate density. Its aggressive spread can overwhelm other grasses if unchecked.

     Visual Identification Guide: Color and Seasonal Variations

     Grass color and seasonal morphology provide critical clues for identification. Below is a text-based comparison of key traits:
     

     Grass Type	Optimal Color	Stress Color	Seasonal Changes	Texture
     Bermuda Grass	Blue-green	Grayish-green	Dormant in winter (USDA Zones <7); purple-red under cold stress.	Coarse, wiry
     Kentucky Bluegrass	Deep blue-green	Yellow-green	Brown patches in drought; purple tinge in winter.	Fine, soft
     St. Augustinegrass	Dark emerald-green	Pale green/yellow	Brown tips in heat; grayish under chronic moisture stress.	Broad, coarse
     Tall Fescue	Blue-green	Grayish-green	Brown spots in winter; yellowing from fungal diseases.	Coarse, upright
     Fine Fescue	Light blue-green	Yellow-green	Dormant but green in winter; bronzing under drought.	Fine, delicate
     Zoysia Grass	Medium green	Straw-colored	Dormant (tan) in winter; blue-green in spring.	Fine to medium, dense

     Key Observations:
     
   • Warm-season grasses (Bermuda, Zoysia) exhibit dormancy in winter, turning brown or straw-colored.
   • Cool-season grasses (Kentucky Bluegrass, Fescue) remain green year-round in mild climates but may yellow under drought.
   • Stress indicators (e.g., purple-red in Bermuda, yellow-green in Bluegrass) signal environmental limitations (e.g., cold, drought, nutrient deficiency).

   Life Cycle Stages: Perennial vs. Annual Grasses

   Grass life cycles dictate establishment timelines, resilience, and maintenance needs. Below are timeline-based comparisons for perennial (multi-year) and annual (single-season) species:
   

   Perennial Grasses (e.g., Bermuda, Kentucky Bluegrass, Fescue)

   1. Germination (5–21 days)

      Seeds absorb moisture, radicles emerge. Optimal soil temperatures:

      • Cool-season: 50–70°F (10–21°C)
      • Warm-season: 75–90°F (24–32°C)

   2. Establishment (4–12 weeks)

      Root development (1–6 inches deep) and tillering (formation of new shoots). Requires consistent watering (1–1.5 inches/week) and fertilization (starter N-P-K: 10-10-10).

   3. Maturity (6–12 months)

      Full rooting (up to 2 feet in fescue), rhizome/stolon expansion, and disease resistance peak. Mowing height stabilizes at species-specific ranges.

   4. Dormancy/Stress Phases

      Warm-season grasses go dormant in winter (USDA Zones <7); cool-season grasses slow growth but remain green. Recovery requires spring fertilization and gradual mowing height adjustment.

   Annual Grasses (e.g., Crabgrass, Annual Bluegrass)

   1. 

      Diagnosing Grass Issues by Type: Identification, Sampling, and Remediation Strategies

      Accurate diagnosis of grass-related issues is essential for targeted interventions, reducing unnecessary chemical or mechanical treatments, and preserving lawn health. Grass types exhibit distinct vulnerabilities to environmental stressors, nutrient deficiencies, pests, and diseases, often manifesting through unique symptoms. This section provides structured diagnostic frameworks, including symptom-based troubleshooting tables, soil/grass sampling protocols, and grass-specific pest/disease profiles. Additionally, it outlines methods for assessing water absorption rates to correlate with drought or overwatering susceptibility, ensuring data-driven lawn management.
      

      Troubleshooting Table: Common Grass Issues by Type and Symptom

      Grass types respond differently to abiotic and biotic stressors, with symptoms often overlapping but varying in severity and pattern. Below is a diagnostic table linking grass types to their most prevalent issues, causes, and preliminary corrective actions. Visual symptoms are categorized by coloration changes, growth abnormalities, textural damage, and pest/disease indicators.
      

      Grass Type	Symptom	Likely Cause	Preliminary Action	Advanced Diagnostic Step
      Cool-Season Grasses (Kentucky Bluegrass, Tall Fescue, Perennial Ryegrass)	Brown, circular patches (1–3 ft diameter)	Fungal disease (e.g., Rhizoctonia solani), compacted soil, or herbicide damage	Improve drainage; avoid overhead irrigation; apply fungicide if fungal	Soil test for pH (ideal: 6.0–7.0); check for thatch buildup (>0.5 in)
      	Thinning or yellowing in spring	Nitrogen deficiency, winter desiccation, or scalping from mowing	Apply slow-release nitrogen (0.5–1 lb N/1000 sq ft); adjust mower height to 3–4 in	Leaf tissue test for nitrogen (ideal: 4–5% N)
      	White, powdery fungal growth on blades	Powdery mildew (Erysiphe graminis) or rust (Puccinia spp.)	Reduce nitrogen; apply fungicide (e.g., propiconazole); improve air circulation	Microscopic examination of spores; test for leaf spot diseases
      Warm-Season Grasses (Bermuda, Zoysia, St. Augustine)	Thinning with exposed soil in summer	Drought stress, scalping, or chinch bug infestation	Deep watering (1–1.5 in/week); apply systemic insecticide if pests	Soil moisture probe test; inspect for chinch bug frass or tunnels
      	Brown, water-soaked patches with fungal mycelium	Brown patch (Rhizoctonia solani) or dollar spot (Sclerotinia homoeocarpa)	Reduce nighttime irrigation; apply fungicide (e.g., azoxystrobin)	Isolate affected area; test for soil moisture retention
      	Purple or reddish discoloration in spring	Potassium deficiency or cold stress	Apply potassium sulfate (0.5 lb K2O/1000 sq ft); avoid heavy traffic	Soil test for potassium (ideal: 100–150 ppm)
      Hybrid Grasses (Tifway 419 Bermuda, Celebration Zoysia)	Stunted growth with hollow stems	Grub infestation (Japanese beetle larvae) or nematodes	Apply imidacloprid or chlorantraniliprole; aerate soil	Extract soil cores to check for larvae; nematode assay
      	Glassy, translucent blades with black streaks	Take-all patch (Gaeumannomyces graminis) or leaf blight	Reduce nitrogen; solarize soil or apply fungicide (e.g., flutolanil)	PCR test for fungal pathogens; check for root rot

      Note: Overlapping symptoms (e.g., brown patches) require differential diagnosis. Prioritize soil testing and pest inspections before chemical intervention.
      

      Soil and Grass Sampling for Nutrient Deficiency Diagnosis

      Nutrient deficiencies in grass are often misdiagnosed due to symptom similarity across deficiencies (e.g., yellowing from nitrogen vs. iron). A structured sampling approach ensures accurate identification of macronutrient (N-P-K), micronutrient (Fe, Zn, Mn), and soil pH imbalances. Below is a step-by-step protocol tailored to grass types, with emphasis on cool-season vs. warm-season requirements.

      Preparation:
      Grass types vary in rooting depth and nutrient uptake zones. Cool-season grasses (e.g., fescue) have deeper roots (6–12 in), while warm-season grasses (e.g., Bermuda) are shallower (2–4 in). Sample depth should align with the primary root zone of the target grass.

      Sampling Procedure:
      1. Site Selection
      

   2. Collect samples from 4–6 random locations across the lawn, avoiding areas with recent fertilizer applications, pet urine patches, or construction disturbances.
   3. For large lawns (>5,000 sq ft), divide into zones (e.g., sun/shade, high/low traffic) and sample each separately.

   2. Equipment and Tools
   

   4. Soil probe or trowel (sterilized to avoid cross-contamination).
   5. Clean plastic bags (labeled by location/grass type).
   6. Gloves and hand sanitizer (to prevent sample contamination).
   7. Grass clippers (for leaf tissue sampling).

   3. Soil Collection
   

   8. Depth: 0–4 in for warm-season grasses; 0–6 in for cool-season grasses.
   9. Method: Remove top thatch layer (if >0.5 in thick) before sampling. Collect 10–15 subsamples per location, mixing thoroughly to create a composite sample (~1–2 cups total).
   10. Storage: Keep samples cool (4°C) and submit within 1 week to a certified lab (e.g., University Extension Soil Testing Labs).

   4. Grass Tissue Sampling
   

   11. Timing: Collect mature leaf blades (fully extended, not newly emerged) in late morning when nutrient concentrations are stable.
   12. Procedure: Clip 10–15 random blades (avoid stems) from each location. Rinse with distilled water to remove debris, then air-dry or freeze until analysis.
   13. Analysis: Send to a lab for N-P-K and micronutrient profiling. Ideal ranges:
   14. Nitrogen (N): 4–5% (cool-season), 3–4% (warm-season).
   15. Potassium (K): 1.5–2.5%.
   16. Phosphorus (P): 0.3–0.5%.

   5. Interpreting Results
   

   17. Soil Test: Compare pH (ideal: 6.0–7.0 for most grasses) and nutrient levels to suffix-based recommendations (e.g., "Low N" vs. "High P").
   18. Tissue Test: Deficiencies manifest as:
   19. Nitrogen: Uniform yellowing (older leaves first).
   20. Potassium: Yellowing at leaf tips/margins.
   21. Iron/Manganese: Interveinal chlorosis (common in alkaline soils).

   Example Workflow for Tall Fescue:
   

   22. Symptom: Uniform yellowing across lawn.
   23. Soil Test: pH 7.2

   DIY Identification Tools and Resources for Lawn Grass Classification

   Accurate grass identification is essential for tailored maintenance, pest management, and landscape planning. DIY tools and structured documentation methods empower homeowners and professionals to verify grass types independently, reducing reliance on external expertise. This section outlines practical approaches—from digital applications to physical reference systems—and leverages institutional resources for validation, ensuring precision in grass classification.
   

   Using Grass Identification Applications for Digital Analysis

   Grass identification applications streamline the classification process by matching user-uploaded images and trait descriptions to a database of known species. These tools typically employ machine learning algorithms trained on botanical characteristics such as leaf width, auricle presence, and seedhead structure. To maximize accuracy, follow these steps:

   1. Image Capture Preparation
   Focus on clear, well-lit photographs of the grass blade, base, and seedhead (if present). Ensure the sample is free of debris and captured at a consistent distance (e.g., 10–30 cm). Include multiple angles to highlight key features such as:
   

   24. Leaf cross-section: Roll or fold a blade to reveal the V-shaped or flat profile.
   25. Auricles and ligules: Examine the leaf collar for membrane-like ligules or claw-like auricles.
   26. Seedhead morphology: Note the arrangement, density, and branching of flowering structures.

   2. Trait Selection and Input
   Most applications require users to select from predefined traits or input custom observations. Prioritize measurable features:
   

   27. Leaf width and texture: Measure in millimeters (e.g., 2–4 mm for fine fescue, 5–10 mm for Kentucky bluegrass).
   28. Growth habit: Distinguish between bunch-type (clumping) and rhizomatous/spreading grasses.
   29. Color and sheen: Document variations in green hues (e.g., blue-green for cool-season grasses, gray-green for warm-season types).

   3. Database Matching and Verification
   The app cross-references uploaded traits against a database, generating a ranked list of potential matches. Validate results by:
   

   30. Comparing the app’s description of key features (e.g., "ligule absent" for Bermuda grass) with field observations.
   31. Checking regional suitability: Exclude species not native to the local climate zone (e.g., St. Augustine grass in cold climates).
   32. Consulting supplementary resources (e.g., university extension guides) for ambiguous cases.

   Best Practice: Combine app results with physical trait analysis. For example, if an app suggests "tall fescue" but the grass exhibits rhizomes, reconsider the match—tall fescue is typically bunch-type.

   Field Notebook Template for Systematic Grass Observation

   A structured field notebook ensures consistent data collection for tracking grass behavior over seasons. Below is a template incorporating botanical, environmental, and maintenance metrics. Use a durable, waterproof notebook or digital form for longevity.
   

   Date	Location (GPS or Description)	Weather Conditions	Grass Traits	Observations	Maintenance Actions	Follow-Up Notes
   YYYY-MM-DD	Coordinates or plot label (e.g., "North Lawn, Shade")	Temperature (°C/F): Min/Max Precipitation (mm): Last 7 days Sunlight: Hours of direct/indirect exposure Soil moisture: Dry/Moist/Saturated	Leaf width: mm Leaf texture: Rough/Smooth Auricles: Present/Absent Ligule length: mm Growth habit: Bunch/Rhizomatous/Stoloniferous Seedhead: Present/Absent; Description Color: Dominant hue (e.g., "dark green with blue tint")	Pests/diseases: Type and severity (e.g., "Brown patch, 20% affected") Weed competition: Species and density Thatch layer: Thickness estimate (mm)	Mowing height: cm Fertilization: Type/rate (e.g., "Slow-release 10-0-10, 5 kg/100 m²") Irrigation: Frequency/duration (e.g., "3x/week, 15 min") Aeration/core depth: Date and method	Notes on trait changes, anomalies, or hypotheses (e.g., "Possible creeping bentgrass hybrid due to stolons").

   Key Features of the Template:
   
   33. Date and Location: Establishes a baseline for temporal and spatial comparisons.
   34. Weather Conditions: Links environmental stressors to grass health (e.g., drought-induced yellowing).
   35. Grass Traits: Standardizes measurements for cross-referencing with identification keys.
   36. Observations: Captures deviations from expected growth (e.g., unusual discoloration).
   37. Maintenance Actions: Documents inputs to assess their impact on grass performance.

   Creating a Grass Type Reference Chart for Visual Comparison

   A reference chart serves as a portable, tactile tool for verifying grass traits in the field. Construct it using printed images, hand-drawn sketches, or a combination of both, with labeled annotations for critical features. Below are steps to develop an effective chart:

   1. Source Materials
   Gather high-resolution images or botanical illustrations from:
   

   38. University extension publications: Often include labeled diagrams of leaf bases and seedheads.
   39. Field guides: Books like Grasses: An Identification Guide (Newcomb) provide detailed line drawings.
   40. Online databases: Use licensed images from platforms like iNaturalist or USDA Plants Database, ensuring compliance with usage rights.

   2. Chart Layout and Labeling
   Organize the chart by growth habit (bunch, rhizomatous, stoloniferous) or climate zone (cool-season vs. warm-season). For each grass type, include:
   

   41. Leaf cross-section: Sketch or print a diagram showing the V-shaped or flat profile.
   42. Auricle/Ligule Detail: Highlight these features with arrows and measurements (e.g., "Ligule: 0.5–1 mm, membranous").
   43. Seedhead Morphology: Illustrate the inflorescence structure, noting key identifiers (e.g., "Branched, feathery panicle" for orchardgrass).
   44. Color Palette: Use color swatches or photographs to depict variations (e.g., "Blue-green with anthocyanin tint in cold weather").

   3. Field-Proofing the Chart
   

   45. Laminate or encase in a waterproof sleeve for outdoor use.
   46. Include a magnifying tool (e.g., 10x loupe) for examining fine details like ligules.
   47. Add a moisture-resistant pen for marking observations directly on the chart.

   Example Annotation for Kentucky Bluegrass:
   "Leaf blade: 2–5 mm wide, boat-shaped when folded; Auricles: Present, white, claw-like; Ligule: Fringed, 1–2 mm; Growth habit: Rhizomatous; Seedhead: Dense, spike-like raceme."

   Leveraging Local Agricultural Extensions and University Resources

   Institutional resources provide expert verification and sample analysis, bridging gaps in DIY identification. Agricultural extensions and university departments (e.g., horticulture, plant pathology) offer services such as:
   
   48. Sample Submission: Mail-in kits for soil or grass clippings, often including prepaid return envelopes.
   49. On-Site Consultations: Free or low-cost diagnostic clinics during growing seasons.
   50. Digital Databases: Searchable collections of regional grass species with images and growth habit descriptions.

   Steps to Access These Resources:
   1. Locate the Nearest Extension Office
   Use the [National Institute of Food and Agriculture’s (NIFA) directory](https

   Identifying your lawn grass is not merely an academic exercise but a foundational practice that directly influences the longevity, appearance, and ecological resilience of your outdoor space. By systematically analyzing visual characteristics, climate interactions, and growth behaviors, you unlock the ability to address issues proactively—whether adjusting mower heights to preserve drought resistance or amending soil pH to counteract nutrient deficiencies. The tools and frameworks provided here, from smartphone documentation techniques to pest vulnerability assessments, transform passive observation into actionable insights. Ultimately, a well-maintained lawn reflects not just aesthetic pride but also an understanding of the delicate balance between plant biology and environmental conditions. Armed with this knowledge, you can move beyond generic lawn care advice and tailor every intervention to the unique needs of your grass type, fostering a sustainable and vibrant landscape for years to come.

   FAQ

   What type of grass do I have in my yard?

   Identify your grass by examining leaf tips (boat-shaped = fescue, pointed = bluegrass, rounded = Bermuda), growth habit (bunch-type vs. spreading), and climate zone (cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass thrive in northern regions, while warm-season types like Zoysia dominate southern areas). Check for seed heads (common in fescue) or rhizomes (stolons in Bermuda). A soil sample or local extension office can confirm the type if unsure.

   How can I tell what type of grass I have in my yard?

   Look at leaf texture (fine = bluegrass, coarse = Bermuda), color (dark green = fescue, lighter = Kentucky bluegrass), and growth pattern (clumping = fescue, spreading = Zoysia). Warm-season grasses (Bermuda, St. Augustine) stay green in heat but go dormant in winter, while cool-season grasses (ryegrass) brown in summer. Compare your lawn to regional grass charts or use a grass ID app like PlantSnap.

   How do I tell what type of grass is growing in my yard?

   Pull a small patch of grass and observe the blade width (narrow = fine fescue, wider = tall fescue), root system (fibrous = bluegrass, shallow = Bermuda), and presence of rhizomes (underground stems in Bermuda) or stolons (above-ground runners in St. Augustine). Note if it’s dense or patchy—cool-season grasses like ryegrass recover quickly in spring, while warm-season types like centipede turn brown in winter.

   How do I know what type of grass is in my lawn?

   Examine the leaf edges (smooth = bluegrass, serrated = fescue) and how it spreads (rhizomes = creeping bentgrass, stolons = centipede). Check for seed heads (fescue, ryegrass) or no seeds (Bermuda). Warm-season grasses (Zoysia, Bermuda) have a waxy coating and stay green in heat, while cool-season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass) turn brown in drought. A local nursery or university extension service can test a sample for certainty.

   • DIY lawn care
   • climate-adapted grasses
   • lawn grass identification
   • soil and grass diagnostics
   • turfgrass types

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